TOKYO – About 20 years before the term “mallpark” began to be derisively used to refer to some of Major League Baseball’s newer stadiums, the Tokyo Dome sprung up here in Bunkyo City, part of a redevelopment of the area surrounding Korakuen Stadium, the longtime home of Nippon Professional Baseball’s Yomiuri Giants.
Seen from above, the Tokyo Dome looks like Minneapolis’s now-demolished Hubert H. Humphrey Metrodome – if you dropped it in the middle of the most densely populated metropolis on earth and sprinkled randomly-picked elements from SimCity around it.
No, really. Tokyo Dome City, as the area around the stadium is called, is a wild playground of baseball-spiced Japanese consumerism that has bold streaks of late 1980s suburban America.
There’s a hubless ferris wheel and a roller coaster, as well as an onsen, a natural hot spring for bathing that is popular in Japan. There’s a 45-story hotel with dining and banquet facilities. And for those of you who have nostalgia for chain restaurants of the 1980s and 1990s, there are both a TGI Friday’s and a Sizzler Steakhouse within walking distance of the Tokyo Dome’s main entrance, as well as McDonald’s, Shake Shack, and Taco Bell. The Japanese Baseball Hall of Fame is in the tokyo Dome, as are multiple shops selling merchandise of the NPB’s Yomiuri Giants, who call the Tokyo Dome home.
Built in 1988, the Tokyo Dome’s roof design is, essentially, the same as Minneapolis’s Hubert H. Humphrey Metrodome, the one-time home of the Minnesota Twins and Vikings, Indianapolis’s Hoosier Dome, the Carrier Dome in Syracuse, and the original roof of BC Place in Vancouver – an air-supported, checkerboard-patterned bubble that gives the stadium’s interior the feeling of a perpetually cloudy day.
The actual stadium portion is concrete, and the roof is lower over centerfield and at its highest point behind home plate, similar to Tropicana Field is (well, the way Tropicana Field was, and may or may not one day yet again be).
If the Tokyo Dome were in the United States, it likely would’ve been demolished a decade ago, imploded or hit with a wrecking ball in the pursuit of bigger suite revenues. But to the Japanese, functionality and longevity are far more important than aesthetics or flashiness. It’s a country where, if a design works and works well, it’ll be around for a long time. World Baseball Network’s Yuri Karasawa, who lives in Japan, explained this by telling me that fax machines are still in common use in Japan, mainly because of their functionality. If it works, why change it?
Ticket Prices – 4/5
The most expensive tickets for a Yomiuri Giants home game at the Tokyo Dome cost 13,000 Yen, or about $87, for a seat at field level between first and third base, while the cheapest ticket in the upper deck is just 2,700 Yen, or a little more than $18 at the current exchange rate. Wherever you sit, you have a great view of the field, especially in the lower level.
Access From The City – 5/5
If you want to see a country that understands the importance of public transit, you really need to visit Japan. The Tokyo Dome is easily accessible not only from everywhere in greater Tokyo, it’s pretty accessible from anywhere in Japan and, truthfully, the world.
Tokyo Dome City is located on two subway lines – you can take either the Toei Mita Line to Suidobashi or the Tokyo Metro Marunouchi or Namboku lines to Korakuen Station. The nearby Kasuga Station is served by Toei Mita Line and the Toei Oedo lines.
If you’re traveling from elsewhere in Japan, the JR East Suidobashi station provides commuter rail service on the Chuo-Soba Line, from which you can transfer to other lines that will take you all over Japan.
And if you fly into Tokyo’s Haneda International Airport, a cab can get you to the Tokyo Dome in about 30 minutes for less than $30.
Concessions – 4.5/5
When it comes to food, if you can think of it, you can probably eat it at the Tokyo Dome. If you want Japanese food, such as ramen, okonomiyaki, takoyaki, or a bento box from the noted restaurant Jojoen, you’ll find it on the concourse. Sushi? That’s also available. As is Thai and Chinese food, as well as burgers and hot dogs. Most concession stands sell beer and soda, as well as bottled water, and there are numerous vending machines selling bottled drinks in the concourse.
Where the concessions at the Tokyo Dome really stand out, though, is the price. The most expensive concession item I found, a Jojoen bento box featuring sliced steak, rice, pickled beans and kimchi, was 2,600 Yen, or again, about $18. Most items were 1,200 Yen or less, and a hot dog is just 500 Yen.
I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the ingenious package of ketchup and mustard you get with each hot dog. Basically, it’s two separate packets, one with ketchup and one with mustard, held together by a hard plastic card. When you fold the packet in half, it breaks open, allowing you to squirt even lines of ketchup and mustard across the wurst.
Game Experience – 4/5
When the Tokyo Dome is full, as it was for Japan’s games at the 2024 Premier12, it’s a loud building. Like the Metrodome, the inflated roof traps sound and sends it back towards the field. During Team USA’s first game of the Premier12 super round against Japan, second baseman Termarr Johnson was literally screaming across the field at third baseman Matt Shaw to get his attention.
The videoboard covers a large area above the outfield wall, and, like most ballparks, plays commercials between innings. You’ll probably have trouble getting Daiso’s “Happy Price Paradise” jingle out of your head. It’s still stuck in mine.
Overall – 18.5/20
The Tokyo Dome is not a modern American ballpark, nor would I expect it to be. Is it a mall? Yes, in a lot of ways. Is it an anachronism? Sure. But it also holds a unique place in Japanese baseball – and baseball worldwide. For that alone, it’s worth a visit.
Photo: The Tokyo Dome hosted the Super Round and final games of the 2024 WBSC Premier12. (Photo Courtesy WBSC)
